Settlements and defences on the headland at the mouth of the river Tyne date back to the Iron Ages. The first monastery was established in the 8th century. It became the target for raiders, and was destroyed in 875. It was re-established 200 years later in 1083, a church dedicated to St Oswine and the Virgin Mary being built on the site.
The lands belonging to Tynemouth Priory generated economic prosperity and over the next 400 years the buildings of the Priory developed
Tynemouth Priory 1450
Records show the Priory was a defended from the Norman Period. The threat of border raids from Scotland and the usefulness of Tynemouth as a military base resulted in Edward I improving those defences. This resulted in the building of walls and towers. In 1390 the fortifications were further strengthened by Richard II including the building of a gatehouse.
Tynemouth Castle Keep and Walls
Tynemouth Castle Gate House c 1400
Tynemouth Castle Gate House
In 1534, Henry VIII broke away from the authority of the Roman Catholic Church in Rome and established himself as the head of the Church of England. In 1536 Henry began the dissolution of the monasteries, appropriating their income and assets, and removing them as a power base. Tynemouth Priory was dissolved in 1539, it's lands and possessions handed to the King, and the monastery closed.
The Priory would eventually fall into ruin.
Tynemouth Priory Ruins
Tynemouth Priory Ruins
The Priory became a military base and used as a staging post for the billeting and supply of forces engaged in war with Scotland. In 1545 a fleet was assembled for the invasion of Scotland, and new fortifications were built at Tynemouth to defend the anchorage and the supply base. To dominate the mouth of the Tyne a new battery of cannon was built. It was known as the Spanish Battery, apparently named after the Spanish mercenaries who manned the fortifications.
Tynemouth Castle and Spanish Battery
Tynemouth Castle and Spanish Battery
During the English Civil War the Tynemouth Castle and the Spanish Batteries were heavily fortified and their guns controlled the river. Temporary forts were built near the Low Lights in North Shields and on the Lawe in South Shields. Newcastle and Tynemouth were one of the few Royalists ports and crucial in denying the Parliamentarians coal supplies.
Tynemouth English Civil War fortifications
In July 1644 the defeat of Royalist forces by the Parliamentarians at Marston Moor in Yorkshire effectively cut off Royalists in the north of England. Scottish Covenanters forces allied to the Parliamentarians laid siege to Newcastle which fell in the October. Tynemouth followed, and the temporary forts were destroyed.
During the Second Anglo Dutch War (1665-1667) the Dutch fleet attacked the British fleet at anchor at Gillingham and Chatham, bombarding and capturing Sheerness before withdrawing. Concerned that the Dutch could affect the strategic coal trade between Newcastle and London, Charles II commissioned a new fort at the narrowest part of the entrance to the River Tyne. It was completed in 1672 and named after Thomas Clifford who became Lord Treasurer.
Cliffords Fort
Cliffords Fort would be the mainstay of the defence of the Tyne for the next 200 years.
Tynemouth Castle as a military location declined, however in 1793 during the American Revolutionary War (1793-1802) it became an ordnance depot for ammuntion. This continued through the Napoleonic War (1803-1815). Gun platforms were built either side of the gatehouse to defend the castle on the landward side. The ordnance depot closed at the end of the Napoleonic War.
The 19th century saw significant economic growth on the Tyne. The shipment of coal and the building of ships turning the river into a major industrial area. Armstrong's armament factory at Elswick opened in 1847.
To provide better protection for shipping entering and leaving the Tyne, it was decided to build two piers, construction commencing in 1854.
Tensions in Europe led Prime Minister Lord Palmerston to state that France were uncontainable, could attack at will and invasion was inevitable. This led to a strengthening of UK coastal defences, notably the the building of Palmerston Forts on the south coast. Tynemouth Castle was reinforced with 20 guns, a new gun powder magazine and barracks built.
Tynemouth Castle Barracks
As the piers began to enclose the mouth of the Tyne, Cliffords Fort started to become obselete and by 1881 it ceased to be a gun battery. The piers were completed in 1895.
It was not only the Tyne that was changing, but also the nature of naval warfare.
Along the Tyne at Armstrong's Armament factory rifled breach loading guns were being developed.
In 1860 the French launched the first ironclad warship, La Gloire , rendering the Smooth Bore Muzzle Loading (SBML) cannon obselete. Britain launched their first ironclad, HMS Warrior, a year later. This development would lead to the introduction of Rifle Muzzle Loading (RML) guns.
These developments would be rendered obselete in 1893 when the German Navy commissioned the first all steel warship, the SMS Brandenberg. Rifled breech loading guns were now the standard armaments. The first British all steel warship, HMS Majestic, was commissioned in 1895.
In 1899 a report on the state of coastal defences in the UK identified the importance of the river; "The object of the enemy approaching the Tyne would be to destroy the Elswick Works (which are at once the most important private ordnance factory and one of the most important dockyards in the kingdom) and also to destroy the Jarrow and other shipbuilding establishments. We do not consider therefore that this can be treated as merely a commercial port".
Threat to the Tyne from German Warships
The threat and the obsolescence of the Tyne defences led to construction commencing on three modern batteries in 1899. The Castle Battery on the Tynemouth headland, new defences at the Spanish Battery, and a new battery on Frenchmans Point, South Shields. The construction of the batteries was completed in 1904.
Tyne Defences 1904
The batteries would be in service throughout World War One, though would not engage with the enemy.
Tynemouth 1917
In 1917, construction began on the Tyne Turrets (two battleship turrets mounting twin 12 inch guns) at Seaton Sluice and Marsden. To control these guns a tower was built in Tynemouth.
Tynemouth Percy Gardens Control Tower
Tynemouth Control Tower
The Tyne Turrets were commissioned in 1921, test fired in 1922, however by 1926 they were obselete and scrapped.
The control tower and the batteries at Tynemouth were once more on active service during the Second World War, again as in World War Two they did not engage the enemy.
Tynemouth Castle Battery 9.2inch gun WW2
The developments of jet aircraft and missiles during WW2 reduced the role of coastal artillery and in 1956 costal batteries throughout the UK were decommissioned.
The Field of the Cloth of Gold was a summit between Henry VIII of England and King Francis I of France. The meeting lasted from 7th to 24th June 1520. It's aim was to foster Anglo-French relationships. It was held at Balinghem which was in the English Pas de Calais.
The 14 day meeting was also a festival of music, joisting, fighting tournaments, and huge feasts. Each King looked to outshine the other, the ostentatious display of costumes, tents and decorations woven with golden thread leading to the occasion being termed the Field of the Cloth of Gold.
Royal Armouries Leeds Field of the Cloth of Gold Henry VIII
Royal Armouries Leeds Field of the Cloth of Gold
Royal Armouries Leeds Field of the Cloth of Gold
Royal Armouries Leeds Field of the Cloth of Gold
Royal Armouries Leeds Field of the Cloth of Gold
Royal Armouries Leeds Tudor fighting demonstration
Royal Armouries Leeds Tudor fighting demonstration
Royal Armouries Leeds Tudor fighting demonstration
In the Commonwealth War Graves section of Hebburn Cemetery is a common grave for 7 men from HMS Kelly. The communal grave also contains memorials to those from HMS Kelly lost in action who lie at rest in the sea.
Hebburn Cemetery CWGC plot and HMS Kelly Memorial
Hebburn Cemetery HMS Kelly Memorial
Hebburn Cemetery HMS Kelly Memorial
The destroyer was built at Hawthorn Leslie shipyard in Hebburn, and would return three times to the yard for repairs; for storm damage, after it hit a mine and after being torpedoed. In the 639 days between commissioning and sinking in May 1941, HMS Kelly spent 303 days under repair in the Hebburn Yard.
Hawthorn Leslie Shipbuilders Hebburn
HMS Kelly was commanded Lord Louis Mountbatten, an uncle of Prince Philip, (future Duke of Edinburgh), and second cousin once removed of Princess Elizabeth, the future Queen. Mountbatten would command HMS Kelly from 27th June 1939, just prior to commissioning, to 23rd May 1941 when the ship was sunk.
Commander Lord Louis Mountbatten
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HMS Kelly was a K-class destroyer built by Hawthorn Leslie and Co. Ltd at Hebburn on the River Tyne. The vessels keel was laid 26th August 1937, being named after the Admiral of the Fleet at that time, Sir John Kelly.
HMS Kelly K Class Destroyer
The ship was launched on 25th October 1938 by the daughter of Sir John Kelly, Atonia.
HMS Kelly launch party 25th October 1938
HMS Kelly launch Hawthorn Leslie Hebburn
Taking command of HMS Kelly on 23rd June 1939 was Lord Louis Mountbatten. Recently promoted to Captain, Mountbatten would command the 5th Destroyer Flotilla from the Kelly.
Lord Louis Mountbatten on Bridge of HMS Kelly
HMS Kelly was commissioned on 23rd August 1939, ten days before the outbreak of World War Two, proceeding from the Tyne to Chatham.
HMS Kelly leaving Hebburn 29th August 1939
HMS Kelly Sea Trials 1939
On 3 September 1939, Britain declared war on Germany following the German invasion of Poland. On 12 September HMS Kelly headed to Le Havre to bring to bring the Duke of Windsor (the former King Edward VIII), who had been living in Paris, back to England.
Duke of Windsor on board HMS Kelly
HMS Kelly would serve in Home Waters conducting patrols and escorting ships to Norway. The ship would return to the Tyne in November, arriving on the 21st, to have storm damage repaired at the Hebburn Hawthorn Leslie shipyard.
On the 14th December with repairs complete, HMS Kelly left the Tyne and was sent to the assistance of two tankers who had struck mines,SS Inverlane and SS Atheltemplar. The same day, at 16:12 HMS Kelly struck a mine in her stern and was towed back to the Tyne, returning to the Hebburn Hawthorn Leslie shipyard where she had just left, for repairs. The ship spent nearly 3 months in dry dock, returning to service 29th February 1940. Her return was again short, two days later she collided with another destroyer, HMS Gurkha, necessitating another 3 weeks in dry dock on the Thames. HMS Kelly returned to active duty on 27th April proceeding to Scapa Flow.
On the 29th April HMS Kelly was assigned to the evacuation of troops from Norway. The Kelly was first alongside the dock at Namos embarking 150 French troops. The overall operation resulted in 1,850 British, 2,345 French, and some Norwegian troops being evacuated, as well as 30 German prisoners.
Naval Operations Norway April 1940
On 9th May 1940, the Fifth Flotilla headed by HMS Kelly were tasked with intercepting German minelayers and their escorts conducting operations in the North Sea. At 22:30 on the night of 9th May, the Kelly was torpedoed and badly damaged by the German motor torpedo boat S31.
HMS Kelly torpedo damage
By jettisoning as much topside ammunition as possible the vessel remained afloat. In the dark, HMS Bulldog managed to get a tow rope attached to the Kelly and she was taken in tow. Shortly after midnight the two ships came under attack by motor torpedo boat S33 which crashed into the vessels, S33 succumbing to the damage caused during the collision. In the morning the wounded on board Kelly were transferred to HMS Kandahar. Bodies were recovered and buried at sea, the initial loss being 20 men. Other ships were despatched to form an escort for the stricken Kelly and coastal command alerted to provide air cover. Continuing under tow from HMS Bulldog, the Kelly with a skeleton crew on board limped toward the Tyne.
HMS Kelly under tow by HMS Bulldog
The Luftwaffe attempted to bomb the stricken ship, but were driven off by the combined firepower of the escorting ships. The German bombers would return over the next two days.
Off the Tyne, the tow was transferred to two tugs and on the afternoon of 13th May after 92 hours on tow and barely afloat, HMS Kelly reached the safety of Tynemouth. Once again the HMS Kelly returned to Hawthorn Leslie Hebburn Shipyard to be repaired.
HMS Kelly arriving Tynemouth
HMS Kelly arrival on the River Tyne
HMS Kelly damage Hawthorn Leslie shipyard
HMS Kelly damage Hawthorn Leslie shipyard
Whilst in dry dock a further seven bodies were discovered and buried in Hebburn Cemetery. Thousands attended a commemoration service to the 27 men lost and a memorial was erected in Hebburn Cemetery by the crew of HMS Kelly and the workmen of Hebburn Shipbuilding Yard.
HMS Kelly Memorial to those lost 9th May 1940
The damage to the Kelly was so extensive that the ship was decommissioned and it would spend eight months in the Hebburn Shipyard being repaired. HMS Kelly returned to service in home waters on 19th December 1940
HMS Kelly 1941 Devonport inspection by Prince George, the Duke of Kent
On 21st April HMS Kelly departed Plymouth for Gibraltar, from where she form part of naval forces escorting ships to Malta.
HMS Kelly 1941 Gibraltar
HMS Kelly Malta 1941
German Paratroopers began an airborne invasion of Crete on 20th May 1941, capturing Meleme airfield which allowed re-enforcement of the initial assault troops. German forces began to overwhelm the defenders and Allied troops withdrew to the southern coast for evacuation.
Battle of Crete May 1941
HMS Kelly together with HMS Kashmir and HMS Kipling were despatched to Crete on 22nd May to intercept vessels for a possible seaborne re-enforcement.
A day later on the 23rd May 1941, HMS Kelly was sunk when Stuka dive bombers attacked Mountbatten's ships as they withdrew from Crete. Nearly half of the ships complement were lost, 121 men from the Kelly perished in the attack.
Crete Naval Operations 20 May to 1 June 1941
A further commemoration was added to the Hebburn HMS Kelly Memorial for those lost when the ship was sunk.
HMS Kelly Memorial to those lost 9th May 1940 and those killing when the ship was sunk 23rd May 1941
Lord Mountbatten would continue with his naval career, his appointments including Chief of Combined Operations and Supreme Allied Commander South Eastern Theatre. After the war he would become Viceroy of India overseeing independence and partition of India and Pakistan. His final naval position was First Sea Lord, after which he became Chief of the Defence Staff, retiring in 1964.
Mountbatten maintained close links to Hebburn. He wrote of the memorial to the men of HMS Kelly;
“none of us will forget how members of the Yard contributed to the Memorial which was put up in the Hebburn Cemetery, or the kindness and sympathy of those who tended the grave. There is a strong mutual bond between the men who build our ships and the men who sail in them and fight in them; and this has perhaps never been more clearly shown than it was between us in the Kelly and you in the Yard”.
Lord Mountbatten visits Hebburn Sea Cadets 1955
On 27 August 1979, Mountbatten was murdered by the IRA when a radio controlled bomb was exploded on board his boat whilst he was holidaying at his summer home in County Sligo in the north-west of Ireland.
A commemoration to Lord Louis Mountbatten was added to the Kelly Memorial remembering the bond between HMS Kelly, Hebburn and Mountbatten.